Mama Mia! Allora, va bene

For the second time in my life, I find myself in the lovely little string of coastal towns 5 Terre. Last time I was here was my first trip in Europe, my first extended time away from home AND from family, and I was 10 years old. Needless to say it was a completely different experience. We went hiking on beautiful paths among the cliffs overlooking the Mediterranean and all I could do was complain about the heat and the carbonated water. I had the chance to try mussels literally plucked from the ocean at my feet, but refused. Well, we live and learn.

This time around, I can't get enough of any of it - the ocean, the hiking, the sea food.

We're staying in Monterosso al Mare, the northernmost of the 5 and I think the "last". It's the only town with a beach, and it's relatively flat compared with the other towns. Monterosso and Vernazza, the next town over, were both hit very hard by terrible floods and mudslides on October 25th last year. While there are certainly tourists aplenty, it's clear that the town is much less crowded than it should be this time of year. There is construction going on everywhere, still repairing odds and ends from the damage that was done. The date 25.10.11 is spray-painted on the sides of buildings, and on every street there are pictures posted showing what that spot looked like covered in water and mud, and sporting cars that were picked up by the water and crashed into doors and stairwells.

I'm glad that by coming here we're supporting the rebuilding of the town. It's really amazing how much they have repaired in such a short time - despite the ubiquitous construction, things mostly look back to normal.
And let me tell you how enjoyable that normalcy is.

First of all, we are in Italy. I don't speak Italian. I speak decent Spanish, and Italian is kind of like Spanish - except when it's not. So I've been learning a few things. I was delighted to discover that the locals frequently (and vehemently) use the phrase "mama mia!" Another word I hear often is "allora", which is used at the beginning of sentences, sort of like saying "so, ..." Va bene is a useful term, roughly meaning "it's all good", to be used in any and all situations. Do you need more wine? Va bene. Is the food good? Va bene. I'll be out in a minute. Va bene. I also learned the correct way to pronounce grazie - the e is absolutely not silent. In fact, I don't think any vowels in Italian are ever silent. They are all cheerful, mellow, musical. This is how I view the language as a whole - happy and musical. I find myself walking along and randomly spouting out Italian words - ciao bella! allora! bellissimo! buon giornio! arrivederci! It's marvelous fun.

The people in Italy are wonderful as well. I am a big people watcher, and luckily my window looks right over a main square in town where old Italian men congregate to chat, yell to passersby, and gesticulate wildly when the occasion calls for it. The atmosphere here is very laid back, very chill. I rather like it, I think this would be a wonderful place to retire. I could spend my golden years in a little garden overlooking the ocean in Corneglia, hanging over my garden fence and yelling to my neighbors in Italian about the weather. Yes, I think that would be quite perfect.

I have been trying to take photos of locals on the sly - which is tricky, because I have a rather large camera. This guy made it pretty easy though. I have no idea if he's Italian (snoring sounds the same in every language), but he seems to perfectly embody the Italian attitude I appreciate so much.